Do you remember the BEST birthday party you ever went to? Maybe it was your own. Or a friend’s sweet 16, a relative’s sassy 60, or something in between?
This past weekend I attended the best birthday party ever. On the occasion of a 175th birthday! We celebrated the Grande Dame herself, otherwise known as the Hotel Kronenhof, located in the most idyllic spot in the Swiss Alps – Pontresina.
Those of you who know me even a smidge are aware of my long-standing love affair with the Kronenhof and with Pontresina. Several of you have even accompanied me there. So you understand.
When I received a coveted invitation to the 175th birthday celebration a few weeks ago, there would be no Plan B. I pinched myself (for what would be the first of many pinches) and immediately headed south from our current home exchange on Lake Constance to the glorious, sunny Engadine valley.
No surprise, the weekend turned out to be the most magical possible with festivities and events that I will remember for a lifetime.
First a few words about the Kronenhof. The hotel was originally a guest house, purchased by father Andreas Gredig in 1848 for his son Lorenz (nice gift, Dad!). Over the years, Lorenz developed it into a successful hotel with a wine cellar (and a team of horses to deliver the wine) that would become lucrative. There were tough times (2 World Wars) and brilliant times (1928 and 1948 Olympics in St Moritz, the neighboring town). The Gredigs retained the hotel in their family for 151 years until 1989!
You can travel through the timeline and read more about the history of the Kronenhof here: https://www.kronenhof.com/en/hotel/history/
The 175th festivities, in true Kronenhof style, spanned a weekend of activities. Here are some highlights:
The Alpine Barbecue at a rustic mountain hut
A short drive and even shorter walk up into the mountainside across from the majestic alp Diavolezza (the “she-devil”) led us to a picturesque setting complete with (rentable) alpine hut, (if you truly want to get away from it all.)
The hotel’s head chef, Fabrizio Piantanida, who can usually be found in the Kronenhof kitchen overseeing exquisite continental cuisine with a local flair, loves grilling. The alpine barbecue afforded him the opportunity to pull out all the stops. Even before seeing the buffet, we could smell the tantalizing aromas of burnt wood and searing sausages, lamb, steak, ribs, chicken, shrimp, corn and potatoes. We were hungry after the early morning travels and had no trouble digging right into all of this, plus fresh salads and rolls.
Wine and champagne accompanied the food and a dessert buffet followed. The highlight for me was the Bündner Nusstorte (click here for the recipe – an open faced version of the traditional double crust cake) but Fabrizio and his team also make a mean tiramisu – and I’m not just “assuming” when I state this. It’s fact.
The Circle Dinner
Good thing dinner wasn’t til 8pm! And what a dining experience it was. About 2 dozen of us were guided and wowed through a progressive dinner circle, staged in unique and off-limits corners of the hotel. A short climb up a hidden staircase revealed a sunset cocktail hour – on the rooftop of the hotel with a 360 vista of the surrounding mountains. The waning sun was also reflected in the illuminated bottles of Moet et Chandon (yes, they were literally lit up with a reflective golden hue from inside the bottle!)
The second course (poached lobster with lemon caviar mimosa) was served in the richly colored and textured hotel bar. For this occasion it was all red feathers and lacy table coverings and candles. Napkins were folded to resemble a tuxedo shirt and tie.
On to the old wine cellar, deep below the kitchen. Illuminated mini trees created a sparkling wonderland while live music lent a very celebratory vibe.
We were served steak in a red wine sauce which paired beautifully with a local pinot noir from Maienfeld, home to grapevines and that iconic Swiss maiden, Heidi.
And the finale – a dessert buffet IN the hotel’s kitchen which was decked out as a shimmery pink wonderland with sweets and fruit liqueurs. The roteli, a local dried cherry and spice schnaps, was just as dreamy as the events of the night.
The Concert and Gourmet Picnic
When I awoke Saturday morning and looked out to the snowy Alps, I knew that Mother Nature had also been invited to the 175th gala. The sky was a cloudless blue, the air temperature cool and the sun warmed my skin perfectly. It was the ideal backdrop for a classical music concert – in the Tais forest.
After the concert, we hiked through the pine-scented woods to a verdant meadow in the glacier valley. Here, a picnic was laid out for us – soft blankets, wicker hampers filled to the brim with all manner of meats, cheeses, sandwiches, nuts, fruits, chips, granola bars, and even brownies! Need I mention the obligatory champagne? Good thing we had the “wonderful opportunity” to hike back 45 minutes to the hotel!
The Gala Dinner
And then it was showtime. At precisely 18:48 (6:48pm, to honor the year 1848, 175 years ago), 175 invited guests convened in the hotel’s courtyard to be serenaded by a quartet of Alpenhorns (on the rooftop of the entry hall!). Champagne was poured and toasts were made “To the Grande Dame”!
The spectacular dining hall, a neo-baroque wonder, had been closed for 2 days to prepare for the gala.
(If you’d like to see what it looks like on non-gala days, you can find that here.)
Floating into the gala dinner, I felt my jaw drop open. 4 long tables for about 45 people each were decorated in a rush of gold and black goblets and softly flickering candles and high tiers of white and gold flowers. The staff was dressed to the hilt in period attire.
Each course was delivered by a long line of servers parading out of the kitchen single file. Silver domes covered the main course dinner plates, and at each table, all 45 domes were removed at precisely the same moment to reveal a beautiful plate of rack of veal, potatoes, and a medley of garden vegetables. A string quartet located in a little alcove above the dining room serenaded us and the “four tenors” (I quattro) belted out favorites in multiple languages.
The evening’s MC, a Zurich-based TV journalist, directed all the events in Schweizerdeutsch (Swiss German). Speeches were made by the chairman of the board, the hotel’s director, the mayor. And a few guests were invited to say some words as well. Somehow, Yours Truly, was one of these. I recounted my 49 year love affair with the Kronenhof and Pontresina to the assembled dignitaries and to the spirit of my German grandmother Lotte, who originally brought me to the hotel in 1974 as her travel companion. It is to her that I owe this tremendous legacy.
I’m not going to attempt to describe this exquisite gala any further. You’ll just have to ogle the photos (and I’d be delighted to share more details in person.) These will serve as an ever-ready reminder of one of the most memorable experiences of my life – at least, for the next 25 years. Until I return to celebrate the 200th birthday of the Grande Dame!
23 Comments
What a glorious adventure! I am salivating imagining all the deliciousness! So very happy that you and Bruce have these amazing experiences together. Can’t wait to hear all the details. Enjoy every moment. 💕
Thanks, Teresa! We are blessed to be able to do this. Thanks for always reading and writing back!
wow!! what a magical fantasy!!! so happy y and Bruce were part of this unbelievable celebration!!!!!
thanks for writing! it was truly an unforgettable weekend.
Absolutely magical! Thanks for sharing this.
You look fabulous!
great to hear from you! thanks for writing. hope all is well in your world!
Yes, it was a wonderful party and it was great to meet you there!
here’s to more celebrations at the Kronenhof and other places together!
Thanks for sharing such an amazing birthday!
so great to hear from you! thanks for writing!
so great to hear from you! thanks for writing!
What a wonderful celebration. The photos brought such great memories of my time at the Kronenhof.
You and Bruce are my role models for adventure and ongoing travel. You two are very blessed. Love you both!🤗
It’s especially nice that you can imagine it all, having just been there last year. SO glad you could join on that trip. Thanks for writing.
Alysa… I had lost touch with your blog until it appeared in my email this morning. I read every delicious word of your extraordinary weekend at this historic hotel. Thank you for sharing… I will go back and read more of your blogs that I have missed in the past. You are living wonderful adventures. We just did a beautiful float down the Rhine river, and still feel the majesty of that region… So much to keep learning about our world, Chris 💛
How great to hear from you! Thanks for writing. I hope you also had an amazing travel experience.
Simply amazing! What an experience to treasure!
Thanks! I’m sure it was more fun to read having just been there last year!
OMG…. What a weekend! My mouth is watering, my eyes are bulging, and my ears are straining to enjoy the forrest music! You both look sensational and VERY happy. What a trip! Thanks for sharing your incredible experience in such gorgeous detail…. 🍷cheers! Marney
Thanks for your note. It truly was an unforgettable experience- one I will remember forever!
Alysa and Bruce:
Thanks for letting me be an uninvited guest at the celebration! I lost my “take-home box” so please ask if they have any left. Your blog and explanation matched the preparations of the Hotel.
Love,
Marty
Marty, thanks for always being a gold circle supporter of the red clog blog! I will do my best to replicate some of the goodies from the weekend when I am back stateside! 🙂
Alysa, the 175th birthday celebration sounds like it was absolutely amazing! Truly a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity. I’m sure your grandmother was watching you and smiling from ear to ear 😊. So happy for you! Cheers!!! 🥂🍾
Thanks Karen! It’s so good to hear from you. I would like to agree about my grandmother watching in amazement!
Hope all is well with you and the family.